Thursday, September 30, 2010

Lamu

Lamu, Kenyas oldest living town, is protected by UNESCO World Heritage status. It is a old Swahili trading hub. Their culture and language is now dominating East Africa's societies. Tourism has picked up and is able to cater semi demanding travellers.
The road to the ferry pick up point is in a bad shape and buses have been regularly robbed by Somali gangs. The government has solved the problem with stepping up security and placing two corrupt soldiers with AK47 into every bus. The seafront is also the harbour for the Swahili dhows that ankor there after week long fishing trips all the way up to Somali waters. Apparently they sometimes see pirates, but the Somalis don't bother about the little fish.
I met Teea from Finland right after arriving, whom I knew from Mombasa Backpackers. She was in a week old relationship with Charlie - A Swahili, Muslim dhow captain who smokes weed all day during Ramadan. Since Lamu is rather conservative it is hard to find a drinking hole. The Lamu Police Cantine was the best thing around and is used by the local Christian alcoholics and the occasional tourist. The bartender and the fridge is behind bars. Local people pass out early around here because they love their coconut rum.
The narrow alleys of old town are cool and full of life. Men in pyjamas walk with women hidden behind full body, black robes. Donkeys (the only transport on the island) carry cement, flower, bricks, rice, vegetables and other things to their next destination. The market place in the center of town is the loudest part of town, where people bargain and gesticulate.
As a tourist you get hassled a lot by the beach boys. They are hard to describe. Above all they want to sell you something, but they also want to be your friend and try to be as cool and chilled out as possible. Annoyingly indifferent to anything in a not genuine way. At least Teea's boyfriend was cool. Maybe because he was currently getting laid with a Mzungu. So we hanged out together most of the time and ate at his familys place. After 2 days of chilling we decided to go with him and his dhow to some islands in the Lamu archipelago. 3 days and 2 nights on a Swahili boat trip for 60$ per person with food. Since it is easy to organize other participants if your skin is white, I found a South African and an English girl in no time and we were ready to go the next day.

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