o a private 24 hours hospital.The building was only 3 meters wide and a guy was sleeping in the back. Nope. So I asked around for a good, private one with a laboratory and so on. The doctor thought that I will be a cash cow and wanted to have me in a bed for several nights. I insisted that I am more or less fine and that we should just get the tests done to know what the hell is going on. So I gave samples of all my liquids. In the evening they already had analyzed everything. My shit showed the Corpus Delicti - a worm called gardia. Apparently pretty common because of low hygienic standards in the kitchen. So there I was in an ugly city with a bag of pills and precise instruction for the next 7 days. I then decided to go to the fishing and stone cutter town of Mamallapuram to gt rid of this menace in a nice environment.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Madras
After the very long haul from Calcutta with semi interesting passengers I arrived in the great city of Madras, which proved to be the ugliest of all the biggest cities I have seen in India. But the whole stomach situation has gotten out of control and had to be taken care of. So I looked for a hospital - a sophisticated one. Since I am backpacking I instinctively asked for the public hospital. But it looked like an average Indian train station. Filthy, overcrowded and no people who work there in sight. So I took a tuk tuk to a private 24 hours hospital.The building was only 3 meters wide and a guy was sleeping in the back. Nope. So I asked around for a good, private one with a laboratory and so on. The doctor thought that I will be a cash cow and wanted to have me in a bed for several nights. I insisted that I am more or less fine and that we should just get the tests done to know what the hell is going on. So I gave samples of all my liquids. In the evening they already had analyzed everything. My shit showed the Corpus Delicti - a worm called gardia. Apparently pretty common because of low hygienic standards in the kitchen. So there I was in an ugly city with a bag of pills and precise instruction for the next 7 days. I then decided to go to the fishing and stone cutter town of Mamallapuram to gt rid of this menace in a nice environment.
o a private 24 hours hospital.The building was only 3 meters wide and a guy was sleeping in the back. Nope. So I asked around for a good, private one with a laboratory and so on. The doctor thought that I will be a cash cow and wanted to have me in a bed for several nights. I insisted that I am more or less fine and that we should just get the tests done to know what the hell is going on. So I gave samples of all my liquids. In the evening they already had analyzed everything. My shit showed the Corpus Delicti - a worm called gardia. Apparently pretty common because of low hygienic standards in the kitchen. So there I was in an ugly city with a bag of pills and precise instruction for the next 7 days. I then decided to go to the fishing and stone cutter town of Mamallapuram to gt rid of this menace in a nice environment.
Calcutta
The place famous for poverty and Mother Theresa
is the last economic center on the east side of India. It is part of the Bengal region which has been cut in half when Bangladesh has been founded. The Golf of Bengal reaches all the way to Thailand. People speak Bengali and the local Government is extreme left wing.
is the last economic center on the east side of India. It is part of the Bengal region which has been cut in half when Bangladesh has been founded. The Golf of Bengal reaches all the way to Thailand. People speak Bengali and the local Government is extreme left wing.Many different world powers had a place on the river here to do business before India's Independence. The British had a especially big footprint, because from here they shipped opium to Hong Kong and China which fueled the two opium wars in Hong Kong.
Calcutta has some colonial architecture, but only one sight is truly impressive: Queen Victoria Memorial. Kind of looking like the Capitol building in Washington it is set in a huge park with small lakes around it. Indian architecture has been merged into it.
Calcutta has a really old British trolley system and a Russian built subway (North South).
Indian history museum which is the biggest in India doesn't match the size with quality.My stay here was rather short because I already booked the train to Chennai and the diarrhea kept me close to the hotel.
Calcutta is better than Delhi but worse than Mumbai. Chennai never made the competition.
Varanasi
The most holy city yo Hindus is in the center of the country. Old people who feel that their about to die take on their last travel and get to Varana
si to die. They stop eating once their and hope to be burned next to the "holy mother" aka Ganges. The city it self is a average big Indian mess with narrow alleys along the Ganges. Because the height of the water changes very significantly according to the Monsoon there are very wide stairways along the whole river. People bath every morning in the "holy Mother" even though industrial waste is evident. The exotic thing about Varanasi is the fact that people get burned next to the river, the ashes are then put into the river. Dead babies, pregnant women, and other exceptions do not deserve to get burned and are thrown into the Ganges as they were. Dead
cows also find there way into the holy river. We saw a dead cow actually swimming next to a dead baby. This unique culture is so used to this fact that they have no problem swimming close by.
si to die. They stop eating once their and hope to be burned next to the "holy mother" aka Ganges. The city it self is a average big Indian mess with narrow alleys along the Ganges. Because the height of the water changes very significantly according to the Monsoon there are very wide stairways along the whole river. People bath every morning in the "holy Mother" even though industrial waste is evident. The exotic thing about Varanasi is the fact that people get burned next to the river, the ashes are then put into the river. Dead babies, pregnant women, and other exceptions do not deserve to get burned and are thrown into the Ganges as they were. Dead
cows also find there way into the holy river. We saw a dead cow actually swimming next to a dead baby. This unique culture is so used to this fact that they have no problem swimming close by.Along the river are two burning sights. Daily about 250 bodies are getting burned. The rich people can afford a nice spot while others just burn their relative between the stones. 
A group of priests daily perform in the evening at the ghat "Agni Pooja" (Worship to Fire) wherein a dedication is made to Lord Shiva, River Ganga, Surya (Sun), Agni (Fire), and the whole universe.
Juan and me had a nice time in the hostel which had a bit of the character of a backpacker place. Juan then went north to Kathmandu in a two day trip and I went to Calcutta. The train was 6 hours late and the journey took 18 hours instead of the promised 12.
Agra
After saying bye to Hendrik and Marieke and Pip who I may meet in Africa me and Juan went on with the night train to Agra via Delhi (you all will always be welcome in Switzerland). Agra is home to the Taj Mahal. We had a room in Taj Ganj. We checked out the Baby Taj which is actually a bit older then the real Taj. It is also badly maintained and cant match the beauty of the Taj Mahal. After seeing a few sights including the fort from the outside we decided that the only thing in this city really worth seeing is the Taj Mahal.
And it really was. Symmetrcial to every detail, bigger in size than anticipated, with strong Islamic influences it is a masterpiece of grand architecture. The park offers some silence which contrasts to the streets outside. Most of the
mausoleum is constructed out of marble. The two mosques on the sides are very airy and thus a nice place to hang out. It reminded me in many ways to the palaces and forts in Rajasthan.
Tourism is big: elderly, wealthy, foreign tourists mix with their Indian counterpart . Backpackers on the sidelines.
Juan and me watched some matches and drank the low tax alcohol. We could not leave the day we wanted because the foreign tourist quota tickets are regularly sold to tour agencies, who then sell them to the tourists who should have gotten them at the original price in the first place.
Next was Varanasi...
And it really was. Symmetrcial to every detail, bigger in size than anticipated, with strong Islamic influences it is a masterpiece of grand architecture. The park offers some silence which contrasts to the streets outside. Most of the
mausoleum is constructed out of marble. The two mosques on the sides are very airy and thus a nice place to hang out. It reminded me in many ways to the palaces and forts in Rajasthan.Tourism is big: elderly, wealthy, foreign tourists mix with their Indian counterpart . Backpackers on the sidelines.
Juan and me watched some matches and drank the low tax alcohol. We could not leave the day we wanted because the foreign tourist quota tickets are regularly sold to tour agencies, who then sell them to the tourists who should have gotten them at the original price in the first place.
Next was Varanasi...
Amritsar
Amritsar is only 40km away from Pakistan. It is in Punjab province which is famous for their food, Sikh culture and the the showpiece Golden Temple.
The Golden Temple is in the middle of the mess they call Amritsar central. Each day the temple hands out 60'000 thalis (meals) for the needing and the greedy tourists. You eat in a huge hall in which every
15 minutes a new crowd is served. People eat fast and silent. Then all the metal dishes get collected outside the hall and goes throw a unautomated washing process which is being done by the worshippers a like. Huge cooking pans with 1 meter diameter are being heated by wood which is being cut in the back. A chapati machine spits out a chapati approximately every second.
But there is more to see. In the middle of the huge complex is a lake with koi fish. Some religious people bath in the murky waters. Guards with spears enforce the various rules that apply here.
In the middle of the lake is the Golden Temple it self. It's golden facade reflects in the water and stands 2 stories high. There is a long line to get over the bridge.
Sikh men wear the black head scarf which covers there long heir which they never during their live cut. Women are similarly dressed like Hindus.
There is also Jallianwala Bagh park which served as the location where the British killed at lat one thous
and demonstrating people after a British officers decided to open fire. It can be seen in the epic movie "Gandhi" and was in reality, where Gandhi started his passive resistance campaign.
We also made a trip to the Pakistani border where every late afternoon the two nuclear powers have a ceremony to close the gates. Several thousand spectators come here every day to cheer "Hindustan" or "Pakistan" at the other side. The military wears very fancy uniforms and hit the legs higher up while walking than many cheerleaders.
The Golden Temple is in the middle of the mess they call Amritsar central. Each day the temple hands out 60'000 thalis (meals) for the needing and the greedy tourists. You eat in a huge hall in which every
15 minutes a new crowd is served. People eat fast and silent. Then all the metal dishes get collected outside the hall and goes throw a unautomated washing process which is being done by the worshippers a like. Huge cooking pans with 1 meter diameter are being heated by wood which is being cut in the back. A chapati machine spits out a chapati approximately every second.But there is more to see. In the middle of the huge complex is a lake with koi fish. Some religious people bath in the murky waters. Guards with spears enforce the various rules that apply here.
In the middle of the lake is the Golden Temple it self. It's golden facade reflects in the water and stands 2 stories high. There is a long line to get over the bridge.
Sikh men wear the black head scarf which covers there long heir which they never during their live cut. Women are similarly dressed like Hindus.
There is also Jallianwala Bagh park which served as the location where the British killed at lat one thous
and demonstrating people after a British officers decided to open fire. It can be seen in the epic movie "Gandhi" and was in reality, where Gandhi started his passive resistance campaign.We also made a trip to the Pakistani border where every late afternoon the two nuclear powers have a ceremony to close the gates. Several thousand spectators come here every day to cheer "Hindustan" or "Pakistan" at the other side. The military wears very fancy uniforms and hit the legs higher up while walking than many cheerleaders.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
McLeod Ganj
After a OK night bus from Manali to Dharamsala and then the short ride up to McLeod Ganj we finally arrived in the epicenter of political and religious Tibetan culture. The aging Dalai Lama lives here if he's not globetrotting and pushing for Tibetan rights. During are stay he was in Japan. McLeod Ganj is more a backpacker h
ub than a Tibetan refuge. I think it's save to say that there are more travelers than Tibetan monks. We did just a little walk around the elevated area and found a beautiful small hotel with views of the fields So we booked it for the next nights. We met some school children who gave a Hindi Bollywood dance session for us, which was really cool. Otherwise we ate and at mellow places while watching the world cup. Surprisingly Tibetan monks are also a bit into football and were cheering for the USA,
The monastery in McLeod Ganj - the home of the DL - is very much underwhelming. Things are mostly semi new and unbuddhist like of poor quality. The temple is not bad, but nothing out of the order. Tibetan monks verbally fought each other in the evening to practise interrogation of Chinese officials.
One day we rented a car and driver and drove to all places of interest in a radius of 70 km. We were brought to a beautiful complex to preserve Tibetan cultur
e. Monks were working on paintings for up to a have a year, paying attention to every little detail. Girls and boys were sewing pictures made out of textiles in various colors with horse hair and silk. In an other room they were making the famous Buddha statues which can be found in every decent monastery. They are made out of copper with a wooden base. They are then coated to make it look golden. And finally there was a carving workshop which had everything from small Stupas to big tables and general furniture.
Later we went to the Kamasutra university. Ironically every monk in this place is a virgin. So it's all about the theory for these guys.
Two Shiva temples on the way were accompanied with a sharp contrast of hassle to the Tibetan culture.
Then we came to two Tibetan monasteries. Both rather new. The first one even looked a bit like a hotel. The second one was more appealing. Several hundred monks live there and go to school. They will afterwards go back to where they came from and spread their knowledge.
ub than a Tibetan refuge. I think it's save to say that there are more travelers than Tibetan monks. We did just a little walk around the elevated area and found a beautiful small hotel with views of the fields So we booked it for the next nights. We met some school children who gave a Hindi Bollywood dance session for us, which was really cool. Otherwise we ate and at mellow places while watching the world cup. Surprisingly Tibetan monks are also a bit into football and were cheering for the USA,The monastery in McLeod Ganj - the home of the DL - is very much underwhelming. Things are mostly semi new and unbuddhist like of poor quality. The temple is not bad, but nothing out of the order. Tibetan monks verbally fought each other in the evening to practise interrogation of Chinese officials.
One day we rented a car and driver and drove to all places of interest in a radius of 70 km. We were brought to a beautiful complex to preserve Tibetan cultur
e. Monks were working on paintings for up to a have a year, paying attention to every little detail. Girls and boys were sewing pictures made out of textiles in various colors with horse hair and silk. In an other room they were making the famous Buddha statues which can be found in every decent monastery. They are made out of copper with a wooden base. They are then coated to make it look golden. And finally there was a carving workshop which had everything from small Stupas to big tables and general furniture.
Later we went to the Kamasutra university. Ironically every monk in this place is a virgin. So it's all about the theory for these guys.
Two Shiva temples on the way were accompanied with a sharp contrast of hassle to the Tibetan culture.
Then we came to two Tibetan monasteries. Both rather new. The first one even looked a bit like a hotel. The second one was more appealing. Several hundred monks live there and go to school. They will afterwards go back to where they came from and spread their knowledge.
Koksar
Koksar is a trucker stop surrounded by 5 to 6000m high mountains. There are about 50 shacks and houses. It lies in the middle of the Lahaul valley and should have been are over night stop to get to the Spitti valley.
But as soon as we arrived we met three travellers w
ho just got evacuated from the Spitti valley. Apparently the snow was deep the pass for an unforeseeable period closed and I just had flip flops. Obviously not the best circumstances and so we had to decide to give up the idea of the Tibetan monasteries altogether. Instead we slept in a dorm which cost 35 US cent. The toilet was adventurous and the water ice cold.
We ate at the best restaurant which was at a old mans place who was delighted to serve us. The next day we wanted to do a casual hike. After a while of walking through the Lahaul valley we decided to hike one of the smaller mountains. There were only paths from sheeps and it was pretty steep. I was obviously out of shape. The mountain was steep and the air thin. It seemed like it will never end. But after several hours of walking up we made it and were able to see into the valley behind. It seemed like a dead end, so we were sure that nobody has been back there since a long time. There was also a river coming down from the mountains that led all the way to Koksar - probably. But we didn't know if there would be a path or just a gorge. We decided to take the risk of not finding a path and walked down on the other side. For that we had to walk on a thin ridge in the cliff. Juan was struggling because he was afraid. So he was really slow and it took for ever. In the meantime I took a look around and found out that there probably is no path and that we have to backtrack. The prospect for Juan of getting back to the cliff was not discussable for him. So we climbed an even more dangerous, extremely steep gorge. Luckily everybody made it safe to the top, where we picnicked an hour before. Then we walked down. Dutch and Argentinian people are really bad at walking down. People were slipping all the time. Happy to have made it back to the "heaven" of Koksar. But then the sicknesses began. Here I got the stomach problem which I have up to date (one month later).
Next morning we left back to Manali. A horrible ride, with traffic jams and Marieke yelling at the bus driver to be a bit more cautious. Once when it got really close to falling down the mountain, people left the bus and walked this part.
But as soon as we arrived we met three travellers w
ho just got evacuated from the Spitti valley. Apparently the snow was deep the pass for an unforeseeable period closed and I just had flip flops. Obviously not the best circumstances and so we had to decide to give up the idea of the Tibetan monasteries altogether. Instead we slept in a dorm which cost 35 US cent. The toilet was adventurous and the water ice cold.We ate at the best restaurant which was at a old mans place who was delighted to serve us. The next day we wanted to do a casual hike. After a while of walking through the Lahaul valley we decided to hike one of the smaller mountains. There were only paths from sheeps and it was pretty steep. I was obviously out of shape. The mountain was steep and the air thin. It seemed like it will never end. But after several hours of walking up we made it and were able to see into the valley behind. It seemed like a dead end, so we were sure that nobody has been back there since a long time. There was also a river coming down from the mountains that led all the way to Koksar - probably. But we didn't know if there would be a path or just a gorge. We decided to take the risk of not finding a path and walked down on the other side. For that we had to walk on a thin ridge in the cliff. Juan was struggling because he was afraid. So he was really slow and it took for ever. In the meantime I took a look around and found out that there probably is no path and that we have to backtrack. The prospect for Juan of getting back to the cliff was not discussable for him. So we climbed an even more dangerous, extremely steep gorge. Luckily everybody made it safe to the top, where we picnicked an hour before. Then we walked down. Dutch and Argentinian people are really bad at walking down. People were slipping all the time. Happy to have made it back to the "heaven" of Koksar. But then the sicknesses began. Here I got the stomach problem which I have up to date (one month later).
Next morning we left back to Manali. A horrible ride, with traffic jams and Marieke yelling at the bus driver to be a bit more cautious. Once when it got really close to falling down the mountain, people left the bus and walked this part.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)