r state. I found refuge in the fantastic room with HBO. We hung out in the tourist area and drank the very cheap beer and made first contact with the Dalat wine. Their is an extensive drinking culture in Vietnam. The traffic is frantic and is a big minus. Freddy went out on his own to check out some sights which I already saw the first time. We stayed in Saigon (that's the way the locals call it) for 3 nights. But amazingly we didn't do a lot. The traffic is just... so many motorbikes... aiaiai....
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Ho Chi Minh
After the long haul from Bamboo Island over Shianoukville and Phnom Penh we arrived in Ho Chi Minh in a poo
r state. I found refuge in the fantastic room with HBO. We hung out in the tourist area and drank the very cheap beer and made first contact with the Dalat wine. Their is an extensive drinking culture in Vietnam. The traffic is frantic and is a big minus. Freddy went out on his own to check out some sights which I already saw the first time. We stayed in Saigon (that's the way the locals call it) for 3 nights. But amazingly we didn't do a lot. The traffic is just... so many motorbikes... aiaiai....
r state. I found refuge in the fantastic room with HBO. We hung out in the tourist area and drank the very cheap beer and made first contact with the Dalat wine. Their is an extensive drinking culture in Vietnam. The traffic is frantic and is a big minus. Freddy went out on his own to check out some sights which I already saw the first time. We stayed in Saigon (that's the way the locals call it) for 3 nights. But amazingly we didn't do a lot. The traffic is just... so many motorbikes... aiaiai....
Bamboo Island
First I spend two nights at the north end of the tiny island. During the day some day trippers came from the mainland for a few hours. Thats when it got th
e wildest, which is still pretty laid back. Before and afterwards it would be close to boring if there wouldn't be the nice bay, a hammock, a book, the fisher and the local boys playing pool. The food was great even though slightly expensive for Cambodia. One day before I expected to see Freddy my brother showed in the morning. fucked up because of the 12 hours night bus and his equally fucked foot he was glad to go with the flow of the island. The next day we switched to the more rustic, more secluded and generally much nicer southern coast which hosts the seco
nd and last hotel on the Island. The bungalow I booked before hand was beautiful and very much functional. Hammocks on the porch offered perfect views of the sea.
For the next few days we had a project every day (because Swiss people cant cope with so much laziness). First day we built a castle with a seven meters diameter. We moved a lot of sand and "worked" all afternoon. Sadly the tide washed everything away the next night. The next day we made a
huge face of Buddha into the sand. Then we tried to reach for the stars. Over a period of two days we built a windmill solely out of the materials which we could find on the long stretch of beach. We worked maybe 8 hours per day and were devastated when it didn't work the first time. We adjusted and replaced some of the parts and were delighted to see it turn round and roun
d for the comming days. Who knows - maybe it is still turning.
During the daytime we sometimes went snorkeling for a bit of refreshment and to see the awesome corals and fish (especially on the way back).
In the evenings their was always a beach fire where the Aussies got drunk and invited everybody to join. The food was also very good. A nearly perfect place hidden in the sea in southern Cambodia. Bamboo Island - write it down!
e wildest, which is still pretty laid back. Before and afterwards it would be close to boring if there wouldn't be the nice bay, a hammock, a book, the fisher and the local boys playing pool. The food was great even though slightly expensive for Cambodia. One day before I expected to see Freddy my brother showed in the morning. fucked up because of the 12 hours night bus and his equally fucked foot he was glad to go with the flow of the island. The next day we switched to the more rustic, more secluded and generally much nicer southern coast which hosts the seco
nd and last hotel on the Island. The bungalow I booked before hand was beautiful and very much functional. Hammocks on the porch offered perfect views of the sea.For the next few days we had a project every day (because Swiss people cant cope with so much laziness). First day we built a castle with a seven meters diameter. We moved a lot of sand and "worked" all afternoon. Sadly the tide washed everything away the next night. The next day we made a
huge face of Buddha into the sand. Then we tried to reach for the stars. Over a period of two days we built a windmill solely out of the materials which we could find on the long stretch of beach. We worked maybe 8 hours per day and were devastated when it didn't work the first time. We adjusted and replaced some of the parts and were delighted to see it turn round and roun
d for the comming days. Who knows - maybe it is still turning.During the daytime we sometimes went snorkeling for a bit of refreshment and to see the awesome corals and fish (especially on the way back).
In the evenings their was always a beach fire where the Aussies got drunk and invited everybody to join. The food was also very good. A nearly perfect place hidden in the sea in southern Cambodia. Bamboo Island - write it down!
Sihanoukville
Sihanoukville is close to the Thai border on the Gulf of Thailand. It might as well be an English colony because it's full of western tourists and western barkeepers who try to work a little to extend their vacation. When I arrived it was pitch black because the power was out. Sihanoukville lies on long stretch of white sand beach which is packed with bars and restaurants. I only spend one night there and in the morning fled to paradise.
Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh has been on my travel list before as well. So I knew where to go. We stayed at the Boeng Kak lake which almost doesn't have any water. But there is a small tourist area where you can eat spaghetti bolognese an
d so on. Indian food was abundant, the Africans are in charge of the prostitutes, the Tuktuk driver try to sell light drugs all the way up to cocaine and rats take care of what is falling down on the way. A mix which makes it a special place. In the hotel where we stayed the Cambodian family who was owning the place were eating all day, napping in front of the TV or laughing because one of the kids ate spicy peppers and later on touched his penis while peeing and because of that was in pain - the simple life. I was still treating the aftermath of Laos and ate little. because I have already seen Siam Reap my brother and me went on in different directions. I went south to find a relaxing beach spot and Freddy went all the way to Angkor Wat to stumble over ancient ruins with his bad foot.
d so on. Indian food was abundant, the Africans are in charge of the prostitutes, the Tuktuk driver try to sell light drugs all the way up to cocaine and rats take care of what is falling down on the way. A mix which makes it a special place. In the hotel where we stayed the Cambodian family who was owning the place were eating all day, napping in front of the TV or laughing because one of the kids ate spicy peppers and later on touched his penis while peeing and because of that was in pain - the simple life. I was still treating the aftermath of Laos and ate little. because I have already seen Siam Reap my brother and me went on in different directions. I went south to find a relaxing beach spot and Freddy went all the way to Angkor Wat to stumble over ancient ruins with his bad foot.
4000 Islands
The 4000 islands are at the Mekong just at the Cambodian bor
der. If the this delta really consists of 4000 islands is difficult to say. It also varies very much about the wet and dry season. We went to the most southern worth mentionable island which has the most reasonable prices. The sunsets are beautiful and you can forget about the dirty food you just ate and the generator next door that will turn on as soon it gets dark. Freddy treated his foot and I tried to think about something else than my digestion. Mendel also caught up with us and we made a bicylce tour as soon everybody felt more or less in shape. The paths are rough and the bicycles shit. After about 4 hours of the 6 tyre
s 3 were without air. But we had seen a lot of local huts and the great Mekong, some little lakes were we bathed in, buffaloes and pretty big waterfalls even tough it was the dry season. After 3 nights we decided to go on to Cambodia. A 12 hours bus trip to the remote areas of northwestern Cambodia.
der. If the this delta really consists of 4000 islands is difficult to say. It also varies very much about the wet and dry season. We went to the most southern worth mentionable island which has the most reasonable prices. The sunsets are beautiful and you can forget about the dirty food you just ate and the generator next door that will turn on as soon it gets dark. Freddy treated his foot and I tried to think about something else than my digestion. Mendel also caught up with us and we made a bicylce tour as soon everybody felt more or less in shape. The paths are rough and the bicycles shit. After about 4 hours of the 6 tyre
s 3 were without air. But we had seen a lot of local huts and the great Mekong, some little lakes were we bathed in, buffaloes and pretty big waterfalls even tough it was the dry season. After 3 nights we decided to go on to Cambodia. A 12 hours bus trip to the remote areas of northwestern Cambodia.
Pakse
Pakse is the biggest city in Southern Lao. It's the gate to Thailand and Cambodia in the south. Its size is considerable and the heat already pretty ugly. The market is a chaotic mix of jewelery shops, fruit shops, BBQ pl
aces, about a 100 buses waiting for passenger to fill up - add a little dust and you have it. The street where we stayed at is much more civilized and offers western cuisine. I chose the Schnitzel which initially proved unwise, but in the long run just plain bad. I got sick and couldn't really eat and had temperature for 48 hours and then chose to take antibiotics. The "bus" from Pakse to the 4000 Islands in the south was packed with people (about 30) of which some had to stand at the rear of the "jeep".
aces, about a 100 buses waiting for passenger to fill up - add a little dust and you have it. The street where we stayed at is much more civilized and offers western cuisine. I chose the Schnitzel which initially proved unwise, but in the long run just plain bad. I got sick and couldn't really eat and had temperature for 48 hours and then chose to take antibiotics. The "bus" from Pakse to the 4000 Islands in the south was packed with people (about 30) of which some had to stand at the rear of the "jeep".
Tadlo
After already spending some days here maybe one month ago I new what was awaiting me. Tadlo
is primitive - pigs everywhere, pig shit, elephant shit, dog shit and so on. But the price for a bed was one dollar and a huge meal as well. So you don't feel ripped of at all and can lay back and enjoy the show. The occasional motorbike is already worth mentioning. We walked up the river, down the river and to a waterfall 1 hour away. There are a considerable amount of foreign tourists here since it is mentioned in the Lonely Pla
net. People spend the way to hot day trekking in the dry landscape and keep an eye out for the daily live of these farmers, shopkeepers and strollers. In the evening people sit down for a beer or the local liqueur. The next day will be the same with little variation.
Everybody had the shits since the food is very suspiciously cheap. Freddy spraind is food while jumping from one of these big rocks to another. The pain and the slow walking had lasted for about 3 weeks and hindered big excursions.
is primitive - pigs everywhere, pig shit, elephant shit, dog shit and so on. But the price for a bed was one dollar and a huge meal as well. So you don't feel ripped of at all and can lay back and enjoy the show. The occasional motorbike is already worth mentioning. We walked up the river, down the river and to a waterfall 1 hour away. There are a considerable amount of foreign tourists here since it is mentioned in the Lonely Pla
net. People spend the way to hot day trekking in the dry landscape and keep an eye out for the daily live of these farmers, shopkeepers and strollers. In the evening people sit down for a beer or the local liqueur. The next day will be the same with little variation.Everybody had the shits since the food is very suspiciously cheap. Freddy spraind is food while jumping from one of these big rocks to another. The pain and the slow walking had lasted for about 3 weeks and hindered big excursions.
Tha Khaek
A sleepy town - typical for Southern Lao - is in a coma since a long time. Situated on the Mekong with a view Thailand. The concrete roads are in a bad state, buildings which probably weren't nice when they built them are decaying and melting into the general feeling of this place. Young people are not very visible. At the riverfront some people drink beer and sipping the afternoon away - all of them locals. I made a visa run over the Mekong and tried to get some Thai baht, since the Lao ATM suck. On the boat were some Thai tourists whom were coming back from a one day visit to Khaek. Alcohol is cheap in Laos, that's why they were vomiting over the railing already in the afternoon. The Thai ATM didn't work either. Probably because I tipped in the wrong pin number, which I found out 2 weeks later because my debit card was refused all the time. Mendel my brother and me drank some beers, ate cheap and waited for the time to pass.
Nahim
In the more remote southern part of Laos in a mountainous region is the town of Nahim. Tourism is still sluggish and th
e people authenic. The reason to come up here is the lime stone cave of Don Kralor - a jeep ride away. The cave is bigger than everything I have seen before. The underground river that flows through it allows boats to drive through 
the shallow water. The ceiling of the cave can easily be 40 meters above the river. From time to time you have to get out of the boat to overcome a too shallow part. After an hour you come out of the darkness into a pristine forest with local kids bathing naked. Then you return with a slightly shorter route. This cave has huge potential to boost toursim and is a must visit in Lao.
Here is where we met Mendel from Holland with whom we traveled for the next 10 days.
e people authenic. The reason to come up here is the lime stone cave of Don Kralor - a jeep ride away. The cave is bigger than everything I have seen before. The underground river that flows through it allows boats to drive through 
the shallow water. The ceiling of the cave can easily be 40 meters above the river. From time to time you have to get out of the boat to overcome a too shallow part. After an hour you come out of the darkness into a pristine forest with local kids bathing naked. Then you return with a slightly shorter route. This cave has huge potential to boost toursim and is a must visit in Lao.Here is where we met Mendel from Holland with whom we traveled for the next 10 days.
Vietiane
Vientiane is one of the least spectacular capital cities I have visited. It is right at the passing Mekong, which is extrem
ely wide here. On the other side Thailand is easily visible. They are currently deepening the Mekong to gain some land on the riverfront to build a huge park. Which will help a lot to upgrade the city as a whole. We visited the museum of national history which is as bipartisan as the United States Congress. Dont get me wrong - foreign powers have raped the country since it has been mentioned, but it was definitely far away from objective. We also visited th
eir White House and the monuments next to it. Vietiane can be very hot which made it difficult to walk to the Cambodian embassy twice. We went bowling in a bowling center, which was the first t
ime for me in years.
The nightlife is at the riverfront with a lot of restaurants offering a big variety of food. Lao people are not as pushy as surrounding countries which makes walking around a bit easier. They are bit lazier than their neighbors as well.
One interesting thing is that China is building a lot on the Lao side of their border. The language in this area has changed to mandarin, the currency is the Yuan and the Lao people have been transported away by the Lao troops. This happened because China has offered a lot of money to establish casinos and fancy hotels for Chinese nationals. Now the Lao border officials have moved away from the original border to the "new border".
ely wide here. On the other side Thailand is easily visible. They are currently deepening the Mekong to gain some land on the riverfront to build a huge park. Which will help a lot to upgrade the city as a whole. We visited the museum of national history which is as bipartisan as the United States Congress. Dont get me wrong - foreign powers have raped the country since it has been mentioned, but it was definitely far away from objective. We also visited th
eir White House and the monuments next to it. Vietiane can be very hot which made it difficult to walk to the Cambodian embassy twice. We went bowling in a bowling center, which was the first t
ime for me in years.The nightlife is at the riverfront with a lot of restaurants offering a big variety of food. Lao people are not as pushy as surrounding countries which makes walking around a bit easier. They are bit lazier than their neighbors as well.
One interesting thing is that China is building a lot on the Lao side of their border. The language in this area has changed to mandarin, the currency is the Yuan and the Lao people have been transported away by the Lao troops. This happened because China has offered a lot of money to establish casinos and fancy hotels for Chinese nationals. Now the Lao border officials have moved away from the original border to the "new border".
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang is Laos main tourist place. Fat wallets fly in with the plane and check out the old part of town. Which is ok, but not amazing or anything close. The fact that is surrounded by the Mekong and another river make it nice. Prices
tend to be of of place. We rented some really bad bycicles with only one gear and rode them to a famous waterfall 30 km in the south. It was as hot as steep, which resulted in a poor condition of us at the sight. The waterfalls were truly beautiful - only rivaled by
Lanquin in Guatemala. Turquoise pools separated by picturesque waterfalls. But the word has spread a long time ago and the tourist infrastructure is well established. Even a asian bear parc is at the entrance. We hiked up to the very top of the fall - were 90 percent of tourists physically cant go and walked to a cave on the plateau. While we visited that place we were the only ones in the cave. Then we returned, dipped into the refreshing pools and packed our bicycles on top of a TukTuk and drove back.
tend to be of of place. We rented some really bad bycicles with only one gear and rode them to a famous waterfall 30 km in the south. It was as hot as steep, which resulted in a poor condition of us at the sight. The waterfalls were truly beautiful - only rivaled by
Lanquin in Guatemala. Turquoise pools separated by picturesque waterfalls. But the word has spread a long time ago and the tourist infrastructure is well established. Even a asian bear parc is at the entrance. We hiked up to the very top of the fall - were 90 percent of tourists physically cant go and walked to a cave on the plateau. While we visited that place we were the only ones in the cave. Then we returned, dipped into the refreshing pools and packed our bicycles on top of a TukTuk and drove back.
Mekong
The two day boat cruise went from Huay Xai all the way to Luang Prabang with a scheduled stop at a village in the middle. We left 2 hours late because the people in charge wanted to wait for more tourists to earn more money. During the smooth boat ride we saw the hilly, green landscape of Laos with a
n occasional fisher trying his luck on the shore. Sometimes you could see a cluster of locals trying to find gold in the water. We spoke a bit with an Malaysian guy who is married to a Swiss woman who was traveling with him. He was speaking about trading silver or herbs from Southeast Asia to sell it in Switzerland. He gave us more insight into Malay politics - basically saying the country is going down the drain because Chinese people are taking over the economy and extreme Muslims the politics. A funny side note is that he told us in front of his wife that he spends 3 months per year in Vietnam or so to spent some money for women. Apparently the money she earns. They seem to have a funny deal there. In the later afternoon everybody had to get out of the boat because there were some rapids coming up and a shallow. So everybody had to carry their backpacks and suitcases through the sand and rocks 1 km downriver. But by the time everybody arrived the night has fallen and a nearby indigenous village splashed out and set u
p several improvised kitchens. They were charging horrendous prices - clearly used to the fact that some time tourists get stranded here. But these prices fell the less they were selling. People had to sleep on the uncomfortable windy boat. The nights here get pretty cold. I didn't want to sleep in the cramped boat and that's why we decided to set up my mosquito net on the shore in the sand and sleep there. It was freaking cold; apparently also in the boat. Freddy wore everything he had with him. The next morning everybody felt like shit. The views were better than ever. Morning mist was all over the snaking valley were the Mekong searches it's way to the South China Sea.
Everybody was happy to arrive in Luang Prabang and ending the slightly too long trip.
n occasional fisher trying his luck on the shore. Sometimes you could see a cluster of locals trying to find gold in the water. We spoke a bit with an Malaysian guy who is married to a Swiss woman who was traveling with him. He was speaking about trading silver or herbs from Southeast Asia to sell it in Switzerland. He gave us more insight into Malay politics - basically saying the country is going down the drain because Chinese people are taking over the economy and extreme Muslims the politics. A funny side note is that he told us in front of his wife that he spends 3 months per year in Vietnam or so to spent some money for women. Apparently the money she earns. They seem to have a funny deal there. In the later afternoon everybody had to get out of the boat because there were some rapids coming up and a shallow. So everybody had to carry their backpacks and suitcases through the sand and rocks 1 km downriver. But by the time everybody arrived the night has fallen and a nearby indigenous village splashed out and set u
p several improvised kitchens. They were charging horrendous prices - clearly used to the fact that some time tourists get stranded here. But these prices fell the less they were selling. People had to sleep on the uncomfortable windy boat. The nights here get pretty cold. I didn't want to sleep in the cramped boat and that's why we decided to set up my mosquito net on the shore in the sand and sleep there. It was freaking cold; apparently also in the boat. Freddy wore everything he had with him. The next morning everybody felt like shit. The views were better than ever. Morning mist was all over the snaking valley were the Mekong searches it's way to the South China Sea.Everybody was happy to arrive in Luang Prabang and ending the slightly too long trip.
Huay Xai
The Lao border
town is small and extremely unsignificant. The basic tourist infrastructure caters the tourists which usually stay only one night to catch the two day boat cruise to Luang Prabang the next day. Still it has some decent restaurants on the river which offers you some stunning views of the sunset. We purchased the tickets and boarded the long narrow boat which has a pretty big diesel engine. The water is pretty low during this season. Not only because of the
weather but also because the Chinese have built a damn upriver in Southwestern China to withhold water for their own consumption during the dry season. This has become a major problem for Cambodia and Laos. Thats why the tourist had to be separated to two boats to make sure we wont hit any hidden rocks.
town is small and extremely unsignificant. The basic tourist infrastructure caters the tourists which usually stay only one night to catch the two day boat cruise to Luang Prabang the next day. Still it has some decent restaurants on the river which offers you some stunning views of the sunset. We purchased the tickets and boarded the long narrow boat which has a pretty big diesel engine. The water is pretty low during this season. Not only because of the
weather but also because the Chinese have built a damn upriver in Southwestern China to withhold water for their own consumption during the dry season. This has become a major problem for Cambodia and Laos. Thats why the tourist had to be separated to two boats to make sure we wont hit any hidden rocks.
Chang Rai
Chang Rai is the city northeast of Chang Mai which will alwa
ys be in the shade of Chang Mai. Less pagodas and less tourists maybe make it an authentic northern Thailand city. After arriving with the boat we went to an guesthouse a bit outside the city. Only after we checked in we found out that there is a huge construction site just next door. So we changed after one night to the center. There we met a thai guy who spoke perfectly english because he works for Thai Airways and mostly overseas in the states. He gave some in depth insight on the Thai culture, their king, transverstites etc. But he also gave us a lot of wine and cool stories about the fact of working for an international airway. A flight from London to New York costs him 2 USD but the taxi to the city center 40 USD. It was good fun. Otherwise Chang Rai is a pretty odd city with few sights. The best picture I found is this clocktower.
ys be in the shade of Chang Mai. Less pagodas and less tourists maybe make it an authentic northern Thailand city. After arriving with the boat we went to an guesthouse a bit outside the city. Only after we checked in we found out that there is a huge construction site just next door. So we changed after one night to the center. There we met a thai guy who spoke perfectly english because he works for Thai Airways and mostly overseas in the states. He gave some in depth insight on the Thai culture, their king, transverstites etc. But he also gave us a lot of wine and cool stories about the fact of working for an international airway. A flight from London to New York costs him 2 USD but the taxi to the city center 40 USD. It was good fun. Otherwise Chang Rai is a pretty odd city with few sights. The best picture I found is this clocktower.
Thathong
This village is ju
st a stop over to get to Chang Rai by boat. It has a nice river flowing through the center and has some nice and big Buddha statues on top of a nearby hill, which we climbed in the morning before floating downriver to Chang Rai.
st a stop over to get to Chang Rai by boat. It has a nice river flowing through the center and has some nice and big Buddha statues on top of a nearby hill, which we climbed in the morning before floating downriver to Chang Rai. The boat ride was really scenic and featured bamboo forest, buffaloes, good old fashioned rice fields, elephants on the shore and elephant shit all over the place. Cool relaxing ride without lowlights or highlights.
Chang Mai
Chang Mai is way up in the north of Thailand. It's close to Myanmar, China and Laos. A lot of tribes from Myanmar and China have fled to this mountainous region over the past. So now the ethnic composition is r
eally diverse and have become a tourist attraction by it self. Freddy wanted to take the tour and so we did. It was the odd kind of tour you can find in many touristy places. But we still did some stuff you normally don't see. We saw a elephant circus, which consisted out of soccer, basketball and painting. Not exactly daily business back home. Then we took on oxcart to a souvenir shop strip, through which we had to walk through to get to the spot where we could "board" our elephant. The elephant took us down a road through a river and through a nice little forest. Afterwards all the tired tourist ate at the only restaurant that was ther
e. Afterward we got the typical Asian hats and cruised downriver with an bamboo raft. This was actually pretty cool because it was really slow and quiet (no engine). While going down you are able to see a lot of elephants taking baths and so on. The elephants parents by the way used to work in the forest to collect tree trunks etc. Than we went to a Karen long neck village which features the world famous people who where rings around there neck and eventually have 30cm long necks. Oddly enough the village was pretty new and looked like it was built just next to a huge tourist Information complex as a park. But we found out that the people who live there since 5 years fled from the Myanmar regime and now have no nationality and need to earn some bucks. That made it acceptable. Then we visited an orchid farm which was the last stop on a packed trip that my grandpa physically easily could do.
eally diverse and have become a tourist attraction by it self. Freddy wanted to take the tour and so we did. It was the odd kind of tour you can find in many touristy places. But we still did some stuff you normally don't see. We saw a elephant circus, which consisted out of soccer, basketball and painting. Not exactly daily business back home. Then we took on oxcart to a souvenir shop strip, through which we had to walk through to get to the spot where we could "board" our elephant. The elephant took us down a road through a river and through a nice little forest. Afterwards all the tired tourist ate at the only restaurant that was ther
e. Afterward we got the typical Asian hats and cruised downriver with an bamboo raft. This was actually pretty cool because it was really slow and quiet (no engine). While going down you are able to see a lot of elephants taking baths and so on. The elephants parents by the way used to work in the forest to collect tree trunks etc. Than we went to a Karen long neck village which features the world famous people who where rings around there neck and eventually have 30cm long necks. Oddly enough the village was pretty new and looked like it was built just next to a huge tourist Information complex as a park. But we found out that the people who live there since 5 years fled from the Myanmar regime and now have no nationality and need to earn some bucks. That made it acceptable. Then we visited an orchid farm which was the last stop on a packed trip that my grandpa physically easily could do.Chiang Mai itself is OK. The amazing things is the sheer amount of Pagodas (Buddhist churches) they built there. In total it has more than Bangkok.
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