Bukittinggi

I had to move fast to get to Kuala Lumpur by December 8th. That's why I took a 48 hours bus ride out of Jakarta, with a ferry to Sumatra and then a never ending sloping road through the hills of south Sumatra. We arrived in Padang at 2 o'clock in the morning, which was the final stop of the bus. Luckily the bus driver allowed me to sleep in the bus for the night and organized the security guy to drive me with his moped to the Bukittinggi bus station in the morning. There I slept some more and then headed into town. I was clearly the only tourist anywhere close and had to let them take some photographs. Then I walked to a park from where you can see a nearby canyon. There I met Tito - a rice farmer. Since he had nothing to do he decided to join me to walk up the canyon. The Canyon is absolutely littered with plastic and a good example how not to do it. After a 1.5 hours walk we arrived at some waterfalls. We took a naked shower under the waterfalls and dried in the sun, afterwords we walked up to a village where he knew some friends. On the walk he confessed that he was bisexual, what made me kind of feeling awkward after being naked in this remote canyon just a few moments ago. In the village we drank some tea and spoke with the guys.
In the evening the guy in charge of my hotel suggested that I could go to a English school in the south of Bukittinggi for a few days and teach the kids how important it is to learn it. I had to decline, because I am short on time. But it sounded really tempting. The next day I was of for Lake Toba.

Jakarta

After speaking with other travellers in Indonesia I was expecting the worst, when I boarded the night train to Jakarta. They said the traffic would be horrific the pollution extraordinary and attractions scarce. They were right with the first two things. But first things first. The train was surprisingly OK, with service personnel running up and down the alleys to sell just about everything you could want. The backside is that people are allowed to smoke and they take advantage in an unparalleled fashion. Then I arrived in downtown Jakarta at 3.30 PM. I messed with the TukTuks and got a ride to Jalan Jaksa. There I slept on the porch of an hotel to safe the bed for the night.
The first day I spent at Kota, a rundown district of the Dutch Colonial empire. There are about two buildings worth mentioning, otherwise the people make this place memorable. A lot of high school students had to take interviews with tourists as a homework. First you hear "HELLLOO MISTER" then you see giggeling teenies and then they ask some really tough questions and the interview ends with an photo session. Without doubt I gave about 40 interviews in 3 hours and got flashed by cameras over a hunderd times. Then I walked to the harbour it self where to museums are located about the maritime history and the "Dutch East India Company" - the first multi national company of the world.
The following days among other things I visited the "National History Museum", took rescue in malls, visited the "Freedom Memorial" and visited the third biggest mosque in the world. I had to wear a long coat because my knee long pants could offend some people. The building was truly amazing, mainly because of the size. I even may sponsored the Jemaah Islamiah with a half a buck donation for the guide, who was pissed in the first place because I proudly said that I am an Atheist and then only gave some Rupiahs for his service.
In Jalan Jaksa things get confusing. Muslim people sell their Nasi Goreng next to the bars where prostitudes in defiance of the social rules sell their bodies and young Jakartans get drunk before heading to the clubs to take Extasy. I even met an Indonesian girl that said that she was also an Atheist. Thats as rare as it gets in a country where you by law have to choose one of the main religions.
Hard to imagine that Barack Obama grew up in a place like that.

Yogyakarta

I touched down in Yogya at 6 in morning with a hungover. In the town I took the first hostel that was 5$ and slept for hours. It is the worst place I stayed at in a long time, with cigarettes in corners and just plain dirty sheets. The ventilator didn't work. The only upside was that I was the only guest in the place (except of the mouse near the squat toilet).
Yogya has a lot of autonomous power in Indonesia, which the local Sultan holds. A Sultan is the equivalent of a King. The city it self has few attractions next to the home of the Sultan, which is more a little city in the city. The main reason to come to Yogya is the Prambanan and the Borobudur temple.
Prambanan is a sight out of town where a huge Hindu temple is very close to a bit smaller Buddhist temple. They are both in pretty shape, even though they got hit by an earthquake some years ago. The fact that two religions can live so closely together speaks for the peaceful means of these two religions. The whole place is now part of a huge scam where locals pay 8% of what international tourists pay. But well worth it anyway.
Borobudur is a Buddhist temple to the west of town. Which is nicely located in a green valley. The whole temple is build out of volcanic stone and impresses mostly with it's size.
The last day the already overdue rainy season started. Life comes to a virtual stand still, as soon as the clouds break.

Padangbai

After coming down from the hilly Ubud to Padangbai we encountered a fishing village where tourism is slowly taking hold. The first day we went snorkeling in a remote bay. The amount of fish and corals you could see did by far exceed the experience the Honduran Ocean had to offer. So I snorkeled for an hour to take advantage of this served buffet. In the evenings we struggeled to find a good and cheap place to eat. The only one in our price bracket was crowded with cockroaches and rats. Lorena didn't approve a bit. The next day we got rid of our high flying plans to go to a Hindu temple far away in order to see an other beach. This remote Bay to the south was a bargain paradise. About 8 tourists were there and about 12 people who wanted too sell something. I tried to fish again, but I am completely unskilled and now have a record of not catching a fish since 1992. Instead I did what I can do best. I constructed a bamboo-hammock-holder to string up my Ecuadorian, Amazon tested hammock. We innocently played in the waves smashing in at all times. Afterwords we got a 30 minute massage for a breathtaking 1.5 USD. In the evening we decided to try the much cheaper Arak you can find in street stalls. It was not at all as the original, but if you play for the result it doesn't matter.
The next day we went back to Kuta, because Lorena and me had to catch our separate planes. We went out in the evening and looked at the young Aussie tourists getting absolutly pissed and dancing on cages. Economically sensibel as we were, we almost exclusivily drank the left over drinks of the other guests. At the end we crashed at the beach until 4 o'clock, when I had to walk (40min) to the airport with all my gear. Yogyajakarta was next.

Bromo Lewang

Bromo Lewang is the home of one of the most impressive sights of volcanic activity in Indonesia. Indonesia as a whole is clustered with volcanoes. (you can read about them on the side of the newspaper at home). The active Bromo lies in a valley that is routinely flooded by lava, so you can see the remedies of past eruptions at all times. We then walked up to the ridge and circled it a little bit. Steam is coming out at all times in a big display of thermal energy (potential). In the morning I got up to enjoy the beautiful sunrise over the foggy valley. Afterwords I was of back down to high temperatures and 12 hours later - world famous Bali.

Ubud

Ubud is located in the inner Bali Island and is quite touristy. On the way there I met Jesper (Sweden) and Lorena (Chile) who were fighting to bargain with the cabdriver. They were both Republicans concerning spending, so I was glad to join the group to earn back some dollars of the 150 USD cab in Australia. In Ubud we found the cheapest place, with really friendly staff. The first night we got drunk with some Arak (wheat spirit) from the supermarket after comparing prices for about 1 hour. The next day we rented some bicycles (extreme low quality) to see some rice paddies and the monkies in the parc. It was really cool even though the weather was ridiculously hot. The public market was buzzling and the Hindu temples gave some meditation conference. In the evening we spilled some Bintang down our throat and played Janish.

Kuta

Kuta - the main tourist town in Bali has been strucked by two bombings by Jemaah Islamiyah in this decade. In the more powerful twin bombing in 2002, most of the victims were Aussie, closely followed by Indonesians and then maybe 40 other countries. A big memorial has been set up at the place where the bombs went of. But the most interesting part is that apparently nothing has changed in how things are down in that town. Bali of course (Hindu) is more liberal then the Muslim part of the country, but the hedonistic tourists are partying every night and getting as pissed as possible. Thats what we did as well - that was especially funny because Neil (a taxi driver from Newcastle) had no manners worth talking about, had his funny gypsy English and could dance better than John Travolta in his best years. Kuta also has a beach, but not comparable to the postcards you get from Bali. After arranging a flight to Jogyakarta I was off to the countryside to see the rice paddies.

Surabaya

After I had to change the already boarded plane in Kuala Lumpur, I arrived in Surabaya late at night. After struggling with the immigration officials about the visa I ended up sleeping at the airport. Surabaya is the second largest city in Indonesia and an "economic powerhouse". Traffic is massive and difficult to understand. The hostel I found without a Lonely Planet had rats and a squad toilet. Walking around in Surabaya is not that funny because sometimes you have to wait 5 minutes until you can cross a road while running. Especially the huge amount of mopeds and the apparent maverick interpretation of traffic rules make it difficult to operate. The smog and the blazing sun make it a nice ambient to take rescue in a shopping mall. Though the next day I felt like I had to do something, so I went to Madura Island northeast of Surabaya for a day trip. People are all really friendly - maybe the friendliest nation I have got to know so far. But even the nicest fairytale has to end at some point - so I left Surabaya in the search for more sane cities.

Brisbane

Gabi and Michael live in Brisbane for one year, because Michael (Germany) works with a genetically modified cotton tree experiment. So I learned a lot about GM food and how good it is. I was a good listener, because I was a believer to begin with. Gabi (Swiss, pregnant in the 5 month) took us to the city during the day and showed us the best spots. On the Brisbane River you can get just about everywhere with the City Cats (ferries). We checked out the Botanical garden, City Hall and the old powerhouse. If Australia is California, Brisbane is Santa Barbara. In the evenings we ate tacos and the Gerber-fondue Carolin brought along from Switzerland. So we had a really nice and warm stay with the temporary ex pads. Thanks again!
They even gave us a lift to the airport. But when we arrived I had to learn that I was at the wrong airport 2 hours before my flight was about to take off. And airasia.com has a strict rule that you have to check in 1 hour in advance. So I ran down to the taxi drivers (without saying bye to Carolin - sorry) and talked with some Pakistani cabdrivers. They told me it is 310 AUD to get to Coolangatta Airport in 1.5 hours. Luckily an Australian guy came - he looked hungover - and said that he can do it in one hour. I had to suggest a price tag and he accepted 150 AUD but he had to check with his supervisor before, to get the job done of duty. And of we went. Rushing down the highway 15% above the speedlimit. 1 minute late I stood in front of the check in, but the girl helped me out when she heard the number 150 AUD. Relief, huge relief...

North Stradbroke Island

Fraser Island was an option at the beginning, but when we saw how far north of Brisbane it is and how much they charge, we decided to go to Straddy. An island of the coast of Brisbane. After 3 buses, a ferry and a train we arrived at Point Lookout. Another walk through town and along the cliffs was next. We saw some turtles and maybe a stingray.
The next day we dropped off our luggage at a local maritime cub and took a cap to the Blue Lake. A nice relaxing place with hippies smoking ganja next to us. The way back we walked - the sun was relentless and after about 8 km in the sun we were able to hitch the rest. Next on the list was visiting Carolin's friends in Brisbane.

Byron Bay

Heaps of tourists visit this place all year to enjoy carrying the surfboard around without a shirt and some also surf. The ocean also offers a nice swim for the normal people and the semi turquoise water offers beautiful vistas from just about everywhere. The lighthouse is the main thing in Byron Bay, that has not been built for tourists. The walk up takes you through dry rain forest (hope this exists) and you can see dolphins surfing the waves. The party hostel was packed with French and German people getting pissed all day long.
A word of the god (yes, that's me): "If you get drunk - do it with style"

Lennox Head

After a night bus we arrived in Lennox Head. It's a nice little town and is considered to be the small brother of touristy Byron Bay. It is not touristy at all and the walk up to the Lennox Head offered nice views of the ocean and the waves smashing in. A guy from Tasmania showed us around and ultimately took us to his Do-Nothing-Spot. Where we did nothing. But while doing nothing we saw some whales out in the ocean.
Carolin took a swim in a nearby lake, which looks like a huge teacup because the water flows through a forest that is the habitat of trees, which are also used to make tea.
Otherwise there is not much to do in Lennox Head - of course besides of doing nothing.

Port Stephens

In Anna Bay we found the best hostel of the Australia trip, which is situated in the middle of the subtropical rain forest. There are just a few bungalows and a pool. We cooked most of the time by our self (Carolin's turf). During the whole stay Julian (France) was with us. He is chilled out and knows how to enjoy a cheap wine. We took walks through the national park next to the nude beach. There was a bushfire a while ago, so it was nice to see the new green generation of plans fighting for the light of the future. We also gave sandboarding another try in the local sanddunes, which was pretty cool, but the focking sand got in to my eyes all the time.
The last day Carolin and Julian did some whale watching, while I chilled at the pool. During the whole stay we saw koalas, herds of kangaroos, iguanas, snakes, whales, dolphins, heaps of birds and probably something I forgot.

Hunter valley

After a nice train ride north we arrived in the Hunter Valley. One of the biggest wine regions of Australia. We rented some bikes and rode them to the first winery. Because we were still a bit early we had to wait 5 minutes in front of it, until it opened at exactly 10 AM. The people serving knew that these cheap tourists, who were making an important face while sipping glas after glas wouldn't buy anything, but they didn't really care. On the contrary, they are all very chilled out, like almost all Australians are. Only people from the west coast of the US are easier going. On the way we also tasted some cheese and ate at a gourmet supermarket. Just afterwords we also saw some kangaroos standing between the grapes. The alcohol and the hills took their toll and we arrived at the hostel sweating. Shower and then three buses too Port Stephens.

Sydney

The world famous city is a modern, vibrant city with a lot of different ethnicities which form the economic capitol of Australia. As planed months in advance I met Carolin from Swizterland near the space needle of Sydney. We then took a walk around the city and marveled at the famous harbour bridge and the opera house. But there is much more to see next to the postcard sights. The Royal Botanic Garden with the bats shitting down, Kings Cross, Aborigines who play didgeridoo with house music in the background,the harbor and the skyscrapers it self. We walked for hours and exhausted found sanity in the free beer coupons provided by the hostel, which by the way has room for 470 people (the largest so far). In the evening we checked out China Town. The next day we spent at Bondi Beach, but the muscle packed surfer stereotypes didn't impress Carolin. She was all the time talking about the boys from Melbourne.
Then we met Nick and Suzy whom I know from a boattrip in the Amazon after spending the afternoon at Manly Beach. They live at Curl Curl Beach, which is just slightly north of the city. Nick took as out the first night to his cricket club house, which was about beer and getting to know the locals and there still mysthic entusiasm for cricket. Afterward we went to Manly Beach to some clubs - which brought even more beer to our thirsty stomach's. The following day the early birds woke me up to get to the Blue Mountains southwest of Sydney. The weather was not to good, but we tried. On the highway we almost got pulled over by police for speeding, but we hided in a side street for a few minutes after rushing off the highway. In the Blue Mountains the rain was still pretty bad, it was foggy and a bit cold, but we still saw the major attractions even though the fog was hiding the whole overlook. I wisely pointed out, that it is like going to a strip club but you never see the jewelry, because she is teasing you (That doesn't mean I have been to a strip club). On the way back we took a look at the Sydney Olympics area which is huge. In the evening we had a barby (BBQ) at Nick and Suzys place with Kangaroo.
In the morning we wanted to rent a car, but they were sold out, broken down or too expensive. So we bought a hopp-on hopp-off busticket up to Brisbane.

Waiheke Island

Waiheke Island is accessible by ferry from Aucklands main port and is usually done as a day trip. You pass an small volcanic cone and green little islands. On the island I walked to the Hekerua Lodge, which is run by really cool guys in their forties. They where sipping the first bottle of home grown wine at 11 AM when I arrived. You live in the living room and get to know all the people who live there really fast. A melting pot of travellers - it's the kind of place everybody stays a few nights longer than planned. I used their hot, outdoor spa bath a few times and cooked only once, but then I had enough food for the 4 days I stayed. Beautiful hikes are possible all around the island, where you can see sharp cliffs, expensive mansions, vineyards, heaps of sheeps and so on. Once I went fishing - again without catching something. And one day I cycled the whole island with the pushbike. This pretty much brought me to the physical abilities I have. But the lonely creeks were reward enough for the battered ass I had the next days. In the evening everybody was walking around with his wine bottle not to far away. Cool place...
Afterwards it was about taking the last ferry to Auckland and the last bus to the airport to spent the night there.

Auckland

Auckland is among the cities with highest quality of life in the world. Ignorant Timmy got surprised by the many Maori people (they historically come from the Pacific Islands) of whom he didn't know and the big Asian community which is looking at the economical oppurtinites of NZ. Walking along the docks of the ships is really pleasant and gives you a overlook of the money people must have. There are a lot of smart cafe's, and reaturants with flavours from all over the world. In the National History Museum I caught up with the milestones of NZ. Maybe the most impressive museum of my life.
The nightlife of NZ is very much british, but a bit more chilled out. But Timmy tried to live low key to safe some money for countries, where money is more worth.

Since I only had a week in this by comparison expenisve country, I didn't want to go far. So I decided to stay at Waiheke Island for some days.

Buenos Aires II

The ferry brought me back to Buenos Aires and at the border I had to pay a "multa" (fine) for not having the paper they haven't gave me at the border when entering.

Back in BA I went to Victorias place to see her again. We had two nice and innocent days together after which I decided to go to the south to see Patagonia. But this last night I stayed at her place we kissed the first time - so Timmy changed his plans and scrapped Patagonia and stayed in Buenos Aires for the rest of the time until his already booked flight to Auckand will take of. The weekend around the corner we made a roadtrip to "El Tigre", but ended up in San Pedro. By coincidence there was a country festival there as well. But we basically had a really good time with walking around, drinking wine, asados (BBQ's) and chilling. Really good times.

Victoria of course had to work during weekdays, so I had a lot of time to discover the hidden Buenos Aires by myself. I checked out more museums, more parks, a zoo, half a dozen movies in the cinema and so on. In the evening we usually opened a bottle of wine a cooked something or went to friends of her to eat there. During the whole time I got to know a lot of people, who are all really keen to get an PhD in social science - mostly to spread the words of Marx. Even though that's not particularly on my page, I respect there enthusiasm. It's better if somebody has a different political view, than no view at all - and maybe even better than the same view (still thinking about that last part). Victoria is also a Marxist and is actively trying to push public opinion towards her direction - also mine. I even went to one of the daily demonstrations against a KRAFT FOOD factory, which layed of a lot of people - even though I never quite understood the big deal about it...

I also interduced the real way of eating fondue to her friends (you use bread, not a slice of kiwi or something!!!), even though the pricey imported french fondue was not quite up to Swiss standards, it turned out to be a nice evening. That's also when I saw Jimena again with whom I traveled with in Mexico for some time. Georgina - Victorias flatmate is an actress in a low key theater in Palermo - so I also took a look at that. Even though I didn't understand too much of the words - the drama was apparent at all times and the Sado-Maso-Amazonian-Women mix was refreshing to the macho culture of Latinamerica.

I had a beautiful time in BA where I spent the most time on my trip so far. Victoria and me were talking and living together like we were together since years. Mate in the morning, wine in the evening and the nice weather of BA made it an unforgettable time that I already miss.

Colonia de Sacramento

Colonia de Sacramento is a old smuggling town to bring goods to Buenos Aires. The old city is protected with the UNESCO label and has some caracter. When we arrived we strolled the old calles and the rambla at the Rio de Plata. Of course the proximity to Buenos Aires that used to be good for smuggling is now good for turism. So there are a lot of people visiting this tranquil city - even though it feels like a village - at all times. The next day we checked out all 5 museums, the lighthouse and the wine section of the menu.

Since Anna is a biochemist, has her own brewery back home and entertaining family history we had lots to talk about, while sipping the afternoon away.

But she then had to go on to BsAs to visit some more breweries, which she has on her list.

I then spent the evening with a Hillary from NY (jewish lawyer from Manhatten) and a swiss couple, trying to find a dirty bar between all these fine restaurants. We ended up going to the supermarket and buying Uruguayen wine (pretty good) and getting wasted while playing Janik (israeli card game).

And now I'm sitting and waiting in the internet cafe - while it is pouring outside - for my ferry across the Rio del Plata to Buenos Aires, where I'll be able to stay at Victorias appartment for a few days.

Montevideo

Uruguay, established as a puffer zone between Brazil and Argentina, is famous for winning the first world cup in 1930, beef and gauchos. Nowadays 95% of people live in cities and they try to modernize their economy. Heavily depending on the fortune of their major trade partners Argentina and Brazil. Culturally they are much closer to Argentina.

The city it self is nice, but not anything like a marvel. The old part of town has the atmosphere of a port town and is not particularly safe. Me and a New Zealander went out eating at the border of the green zone. When leaving the restaurant we passed some locals BBQ next to the sidewalk in the gutter. When asked for a cigarette I helped them out, but we didn't want to give them any money. I was once robbed in Switzerland and saw the same expression on this guys face as on the one in Switzerland shortly before we got into trouble. So I said to the New Zealander "run" and we ran towards the green zone. He was obviously out of shape so we lost him quickly.

In the hostel I also met Murray from Holland which I briefly met in La Paz 4 months ago. Afterwards we did the same thing as the last time and got drunk and went out.

Their was also a really strange German guy, who didn't speak any Spanish and a bad English who got on my nerves all the time. Talking about german politics and boring stuff about his life. And he did it really persistent. I had to write down all the spanish words needed to work an ATM. At least he played some chess.

I also visited the congress and senate of the Uruguayan goverment which was pretty impressive.

Then I met Anna from LA, who was born in Wisconsin and moved about 15 times in her live. But judging her personality, I would say she belongs to San Franciso. We spent a lot of time in museums together and also went to a soccer game in the famous peñarol stadium (graffiti in Montevideo: sex, dugs and peñarol), where the first World Cup was one. The german guy invited himself and talked about Hartz 4 and 1 Euro jobs. The fans were cool smoking weed all the time and shouting their team to a 1:0 win.

Then me and Anna went on to Colonia de Sacramento.

Buenos Aires I

The crown jewl of Latin America was next. Famous for the architecture and the vivid porteño lifestyle. But the thing I was really looking forward to was meeting Victoria, whom I met in Mexico 9 months ago. In Mexico we spent a few days together visiting Mazunte, San Cristobal and Palenque. back then I had a crush on the girl, but shy Timmy didn't make any move. But when she left I felt bad and I bought the skirt at a street stall which she thought about buying the day before. Since then I have had a skirt in my backback (it tends to bring you into situations, that force you trying to explain). After carrying in through 13 countires now the moment has come to give it to her.
But first things first - I checked out the main attractions of Buenos Aires. The cementary of the rich porteños of past times, who had the money to build little cathedrals instead just normal graves. Colorful La Boca which is host to the most caracter filled part of the city. The Centro which is much like any European city, with a Latinamerican twist. The spectacular Museo de las Bellas Artes in Reclota with fine traditional European and more abstract Argentinian art is well worth checking out. I also peeked into the presidential palace aka Casa Rosada, which is nice, but not spectcular. Rizzy Puerto Madreno which caters snobby people with their nose high up. Once we checked out the famous nightlife of Buenos Aires, but prices were high and Timmy didn't enjoy it to much. Guess I'm getting older and wiser (maybe boring), but nowadays a prefer chilling over partying.
So after 2 days I called Victoria to meet up and we met at her place in Palermo. She was the same as in Mexico. The wine I brought along smoothed things and we had a nice time, but it didn't seem like the moment I was imagining to give her the skirt.
Also the next day - wen she invited me for a BBQ with some schoolfriends - Timmy didn't think it was the right time. But since he would be making a detour to Uruguay the next day, he gave it to her. She was really happy about it and remembered looking at it at the stall at the foot of Palenque - but the moment was far less spectacular than I thought it was going to be.

Rosario

Lightnings and thunders and extreme rain awaited me in Rosario at 4 o'clock in the morning when I arrived. The depressing bus station atmosphere was my home for the next 2 hours until the buses started to head to downtown.

Rosario is the second capitol of Argentina and is very much like an European city. It also has an international shipping port and since my hostel was right at the harbour, there were only sailors in my dorm (sailors tend to snore...). People are busily walking around town and drink mate all the time. There are some really nice restaurants that I hit regularly. The clubs were not as good as expected, but it was of course during the week. The real emotions came up when Argentina played against Paraguay in the World Cup qualifications (Argentina lost against Brazil just before and is struggling to qualify at all). Paraguay defeated the gauchos in Asuncion, sending Maradona to the media to answer some profound questions.

There is a huge memorial at the Parana river reminding people of the Argentinian sacrifies in the Malvinas war and about whom the islands really belong to. Next to it are the shopping streets where I finally bought a jacket after my other one got robbed in Ecuador. I also visited two museum and the Hypodroma, which apparently is only for club members, so they kicked me out.

Cordoba

If you come down from Cafayate to Cordoba you pass a mountain peek and after that the climate changes completly. There are green fields and the sky is cloudier. Cordoba itself has 2 million inhabitants and some colonial houses - nothing special. Life completly shuts down from 1 o'clock till 8 o'clock. Several museums are mentionable, but the "museo de bellas artes provincial" is by far the best. I also spent a afternoon in the zoo - I love zoos. They had all the usual animals from all over the planet and some local exotic buggers.

Otherwise there is not much to say, I ate mostly at all you can eat joints and had to find out that my stomach got smaller on this trip and since I am in Brazil and Argentina I can't eat the amounts I used to be able to kill at home. But of course now I can murder a wine bottle swiftly without blinking.

Cafayate

Melanie gave me the tip about Cafayate and I'm thankfull for that. Cafayate is in a valley deep in the Rocky Moutains of Argentina. It's really dry and the temperture never drops beneath zero degrees - that makes it one one of the best wine regions of South America. The town itself has only 10'000 people and things go slow. During afternoon lives shuts itself down and even the dogs go to sleep.

After getting the taste for "vino de la casa" we went to sleep only to wake up at 2 o'clock to go out. Because people to the siesta thing they have a lot of energy in the evening and party til 5 o'clock or later. It was nice to hang out with the Argentinians we met right away. The next day me and Matthew (Utah) walked twoards the closest mountain in sight (San Isidro) and hiked the 1000 m higher rock. To get there, up and back took us 8 hours. We ran out of water on the way back and were completely fucked when we got back - wine infusion.

The next day we went with Manuela (48 years old, NZ) to the wineyards around town. Two streetdogs followed us all the way. Shortly before we got to the last winery, one dog got hit by a pickup. It made a strange sound and the dog got spit out the back of the truck. He was lightly insured and was barking at the truck and in general about being so unlucky. In the "bodega" we were greeted by a indigenous wine conneceuse and were shown around and ended up at the basement where we could drink the fabulous merlot and so on and we thaught the woman some English since she suddenly came up with a book - afterwards siesta.

The third day I decided to check out the "Quebrada de Cafayate" by bycicle. The colors, the river and the rockformations make it a unique place to visit. Silence accompanied me on the first 50 km up to the "Garganta del Diabolo" because not many cars pass and I was not yet cursing even tough I felt it to be very challenging. After 20 km on the way back I decided to make a lunch break at the river. Thats when some shitty spike took all the air out of my front tyre. Now I was cursing, especially because there was no repair kit on the bike. Since I'm a good person I decided not to ride it anyway, because otherwise it would wreck the weel. So I walked with may thumb up each time a car past. But they were not eager to stop. After 10 km I ran out of water so I asked some guy who I met on the steet, which pointed out his house on the horizon. Is wife gave me water afterwards. Then I was back on the road - walking. After another 5 km finally somebody had the decency to help the stupid gringo on the side of the road. But only after it was getting dark.

Salta

Salta is turisty and the doorway up to Bolivia. Mentionable are the many restaurants that try to come up with the proper response for the high expetations of meat loving men. Streets are noisy as allways and there is a lot of pollution because there is almost no rain in this valley. I walked up to the "Pan de Azucar" of Salta and checked out two museums. One about anthropologic discoveries and the other more sophisticated one about mumies. They are not actually mumies, but the kids are well conserved, because they were burried on a really high mountain top in the perma frost. Then of course there are several parks worth checking out, because they are usually really crowded with young people in school uniform.

Since a old school friend of mine (Melanie Schnidrig) worked and lived there for 2 years, I also greeted her friends, who lived there ever since. To bad she was not there.